a great day of surfing, and all the boxes are ticked. rented a board from a man called Tigre (Tiger) who, after my first few relatively triumphant hours in the morning, introduced me to his 4-year-old son Mar (Sea), after at which they both went out. i sat on the beach, watched Mar surf better at the age of 4 than i think i ever will in my whole life, and cried.