one line on my day... i sacrificed my first sunburn (and what a full-back beauty it is) and a long journey (including one moment in which the bus had to let a lorry past a single-vehicle bridge, only for the lorry to continue blocking the bus to get the girl sitting next to me's phone number, brilliant) for my own middle-of-nowhere, un-gringo-fied, two-tiered, pure, fresh waterfall. Amazing.